General Axolotl Care Sheet – Simplified for Humans and Print Friendly

Axolotl Care Sheet

Housing

Because an adult axolotl can grow to be 14 inches it is recommended to house one in a tank that is at least 24 inches in length. This would also be suitable for a pair, but bigger is always better and a new axolotl owner should ideally be looking at a 36 inch tank as a minimum.

Diet

Axolotls are carnivorous. There are a range of different foods that they can thrive on, from specialised axolotl pellets to bloodworms to earthworms. If offering live food you must be confident in your source as it may be carrying a disease that can infect your axolotl.

Young axolotls will most eagerly accept bloodworms and should be fed two times a day. Adult axolotls will eat a larger range of food and should be fed according to size, but every other day is often sufficient. To tell if your axolotl is a healthy weight compare the width of its stomach to the width of its head, these should be of a similar size. Mature female axolotls will often appear rounder than mature males; this is because they are carrying numerous amounts of eggs.

Gender

At around six months old onwards your axolotl will begin to reach maturity. Males will have an enlarged cloacal region (this is the bump you will see beneath the axolotl), whereas females, apart from appearing to have rounder stomachs, will remain as they were. If kept together a male and female axolotl will breed. It is best to keep them in same sex groupings as a healthy axolotl female can lay up to 300 eggs if allowed to breed with a male.

Substrate

Even if hand fed axolotls still have a habit of scavenging the floor of the tank for food. Because of this special consideration should be put into your choice of substrate. Gravel should not be used because if swallowed it can became lodged in the axolotl causing discomfort and a lack of appetite: if the axolotl cannot pass the gravel this can be fatal. Even if the axolotl manages to pass the gravel it can result in a collapsed cloaca. Not only this, but water quality can also be impaired due to waste trapped beneath the stones. Because of these reasons gravel is not a suitable substrate.

Fine sand can be easily passed by an axolotl if ingested and will also provide a suitable area for healthy bacteria to grow in the tank. This is something that a bare tank may not achieve as well, but young axolotls will be safer living on a bare floor as the ingestion of even fine sand may cause irritability.

You can also create your own flooring by using aquarium sealant to attach slate to the base.

As a general rule anything used in your axolotls tank should be bigger than their head, if it is possible for them to swallow it, there is a chance that they will.

Tank Mates

The above statement also applies to other axolotls. If you plan to keep more than one axolotl any companions must be roughly the same size, generally no greater size difference than an inch. This is because axolotls are cannibalistic. It is more common in young axolotls, but if not fed accordingly, or not living in a tank that provides enough space for the axolotls, they may attack each other.

Nothing other than axolotls should be kept in the tank due to risk of spread of disease and injury. Just to emphasise, this means no other water inhabiting creature should be kept with an axolotl other than an axolotl.

Water Conditions

Water quality is essential to keeping a happy and healthy axolotl. The temperature should ideally be between 16 and 20 °C, any higher and this can cause sickness and stress. Signs of stress in an axolotl are forward pointing gills, a curled tail tip, or a lack in appetite. If you recognise these symptoms it would be advisable to test the parameters of the water to make sure they are correct. This can easily be done using a master test kit. In addition to regular testing you will also have to carry out water changes, being sure to add a water conditioner to any fresh water you intend to put into the tank, and have a filter capable of keeping up with the waste produced by axolotls.

Decorations

Although there are many fancy ornaments you can use in your axolotl tank it is only necessary to be certain to have a few things, but do allow them plenty to engage in as they are intelligent and curious creatures. The essentials, however, are: plants either live or fake to create a comfortable environment and a cave for them to feel safe inside, ideally one per axolotl. Additional lighting is not required but should you use it you must have caves as axolotls eyes are sensitive to the light and it can cause them distress.

If there are any signs of sickness be sure to take your axolotl to a vet specialised in the species.

Further Reading:

www.axolotl.org

www.caudata.org

https://gillymclotl.wordpress.com

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Meet the Axolotls

Tumblety and Moriarty Report

An Introduction to the Axolotls of Lotl-tank Corner

 

Name: Arbie

Gender: Female

Type: Leucistic

Behind the name: Named after The Arbiter from the Halo franchise.

We often refer to Arbie as the favourite; she is after all human’s first axolotl. Discovered in June 2010 whilst human was shopping for the finned non-legged variety (fish) Arbie and her siblings were swimming around in a tank above. It was love at first sight and within a week Arbie was at home with human and together they were to begin their journey of human and axolotl friendship.

Name: Jones Bones Jonesy – aka Scuttle Bug

Gender: Male

Type: Leucistic

Behind the name: Named after Jonesy the cat from the Alien film series.

Jonesy was human’s second attempt at taking in a worse for wear axolotl. The girl at the petshop was kind enough to hand him over for free when human pointed out that he was being used as a quick bite by the other, much larger, axolotls of the tank he was being kept in. He is a strange looking axolotl and through a trip to the exotic vet human learned that whilst growing his lower jaw hadn’t quite developed properly. Because of this it caused a tissue substance to form and bunch up in the middle, which is why he now appears to be constantly smiling!

Name: Dr. Alan Axolotl

Gender: Female

Type: Leucistic

Behind the name: Named after Alan Wake, human wanted the writer’s name because of Alan’s distinct spectacle markings.

Alan was chosen for her odd markings, she was actually brought home on the same day as Neko and Jonesy. When human was about to leave she found her feet firmly glued to the floor and realised that she wasn’t going anywhere until the little bespectacled axolotl buzzing around at her in the tank above was coming with her. Now the boss of the female tank Alan, although not really a doctor, prides herself on her constant research and new found knowledge of our species.

 Name: Hoshi

Gender: Male

Type: Leucistic

Behind the name: Hoshi means star in Japanese. And considering the condition he arrived in he deserved nothing less than a beautiful name.

Hoshi was discovered whilst human was spying on the axolotl tanks of the local pet shop. She couldn’t quite believe the sorry state she found this axolotl in. It must be noted that the condition he was in was not the pet shops doing. He had actually been handed over to them by the mother of his original owner, because the pathetic excuse for a human had grown bored of him so chosen to leave him to die. Hoshi’s case deserves to be looked at more closely and so we will report on it in the form of a blog at a later date! The important thing is that he is happy and healthy now and possibly human’s most companionable axolotl.

Name: Moriarty

Gender: Male

Type: Dark Wild Type

Behind the name: Moriarty was the first in “the villain’s tank” and so was named appropriately, taking his name from Professor Moriarty of Sherlock Holmes.

Considering I lived the first 5 months of my life at human’s house with Moriarty, I Tumblety feel it best I offer his introduction and in turn he will write mine!

Moriarty was the axolotl that shouldn’t have been, but obviously was going to be. Human actually spotted him roughly two to three weeks before purchasing him and was in constant turmoil over whether or not to have him! He was beautiful, and he was playful and entertaining to watch! It came to the point that human decided if he was there that week she went in to buy her other lotls some food she would be bringing him home with her. The second tank had already been set up for weeks but she didn’t expect Moriarty to still be there! Needless to say she was taking him home this time!

Name: Tumblety

Gender: Female

Type: Wild Type

Behind the name: Tumblety, second to “The Villian’s Tank”, was given the name of one of the Jack the Ripper suspects.

Tumblety was actually in the tank with me at the time, but human at first left without her. Shocking I know, but human hadn’t even really planned to be taking me home that day. It didn’t take long however for human to be back at the pet shop asking for the little axolotl with no front arms, as at this point Tumblety didn’t have any! She’s pretty bossy and insists on always being first at dinner time, but she’s lovely really…honestly!

 

In Memoriam

Although these axolotls are no longer with us, they were loved very much and so there is no reason for them not to be included.

Name: Jager

Gender: Male

Type: Melanoid

Behind the name: Jager was actually named by human’s boyfriend (the one who is secretly afraid of us!) for no other reason than it sounded good, and it did!

Jager was humans second axolotl, brought home to be a companion to Arbie. Sadly he wasn’t with us long at all. He looked strange from the start but that wasn’t going to stop human from bringing him home with her. Unfortunately he wouldn’t eat and only on one occasion did human manage to tempt him with a worm. He was booked into the vets but sadly died the night before, the reason why is unknown. He was Arbie’s best friend and his picture is positioned, along with Neko’s, beside the tank.

Name: Neko

Gender: Female

Type: Wild Type

Behind the name: Neko meaning cat in Japanese, was named for her curious nature.

Neko came home along with Jonesy and Alan, and had actually been living with Jonesy from the start! She was an incredibly placid little axolotl who mostly kept to herself.  Human put her death down to a stomach infection of sorts, as unlike Jager she had shown no noticeable signs of illness. She had been refusing to eat for a couple of weeks and so human had been following known axolotl procedures. Neko actually appeared more active and happier the night before she died. Because of this human is now very strict with us and at the first signs of illness we are shipped off to the vets, she also suggests this to any other axolotl owners and will not take the risk of waiting anything out any longer.

Name: Litl-Lotl

Gender: Unknown

Type: Wild Type

Behind the name: Litl-Lotl was named so rather than calling her ‘the axolotl’ when discussed. Also in appearance, this axolotl was very small.

Litl-Lotl never came home with human. The story of why and what happened with this axolotl and why a mention is deserved can be found here: https://gillymclotl.wordpress.com/2011/07/06/the-story-of-litl-lotl/. Rest in peace little one.

The babies

Although there are well over 300 of them, the eggs that were culled are also close to human’s heart. There may be no name, or known personality, but it was a very sad day when she had to say goodbye to them.

Thanks for reading about us and learning more of our individual personalities and stories!

Until next time! >>>(O_O)<<<

The Story of Litl-lotl

The Suffering and Death of Litl-lotl.

Written by The Human

Although not a big campaigner, in the past I have worked to get the conditions of the axolotls at a local petshop to a better standard. Something that on previous visits I thought had been achieved. But oh was I wrong! I now can’t help but believe the axolotls that I saw looking healthy were newly delivered from the breeder, in fact after what I saw on Monday I definitely believe that.

I was actually only there to look at the cost of rabbity things, but as always had a look in on the axolotls. The majority of the plants that had been put in had now gone, sold as they were probably never even there to act as hides!

There were four axolotls divided into two tanks, one adult in a tank alone and three young’uns in a small tank above. All of these axolotls looked scraggy and underfed.

Okay, maybe I should elaborate. When I looked into the small tank the first thing that crossed my mind was, “is that axolotl even alive?” a question I was soon asking a member of staff, who didn’t seem to know, or even care for that matter, either.

The axolotl in question was lay on the floor of the tank, 3/4 limbs were missing, half of its dorsil fin and the majority of it’s gills. That which wasn’t missing was covered in fungus.

When I told the man this, in case for some completely absurd reason he hadn’t noticed, he shrugged and said, “it’s alright they grow their limbs back like.” Oh well that’s okay then isn’t it, never mind the fact it’s being eaten alive by its tank companions, it grows them back! I refrained from saying: I know I have six at home.

He was soon poking it with a stick and when it at first didn’t move shrugged again and said, “nope.” (to whether or not it was alive), but it soon moved and I was soon speaking to another member of staff.

I was told I couldn’t take it home to try and help it survive, the reason for this I’m quite aware of. I called back on Tuesday however letting them know I wanted to buy it once it was well. I was told to call back on Thursday morning, when I did I was quite shocked to learn they hadn’t checked on it and told to call back later, I did and again when I called at 4pm  they still hadn’t. But I was put on hold and once the girl returned I was told it was dead.

Oh, and as for the other two young axolotls, one was missing a chunk out of its fin and another an arm. Is it that hard to keep these animals fed?!

Litl-lotl isn’t here today to write this story, so I had to instead. Help keep axolotls alive by supporting them and challenging any stockist you don’t believe to be taking proper care of them.

Caring for Baby Axolotls

Caring for Baby Axolotls – A Guide for Human Grandparents

Part One – Axolotl Embryo

Dr. Alan Axolotl 

 

What you will find in this guide:

Information on how to raise axolotls

Notes at the end of each section for easy referral

Links to invaluable sources of information used by both human and myself

Pictures of developing embryos, hatchlings and growing baby axolotls

Pictures and notes on anything considered useful in the upbringing of axolotl babies by human

Disposing of Unwanted Eggs

Something that must first be noted is the sheer amount of eggs an axolotl can lay. Miss Arbie laid roughly 350 odd eggs. Now, unless you have suitable homes for all of these, and you truly believe you can care for them all adequately and give them all a fair chance at life, it is kindest to cull the eggs you can’t sell on, or care for.

There are a couple of reasons our human chose to cull the majority of Arbie’s eggs, I’m sure she’d be willing to discuss them if asked.

The kindest way to dispose of any unwanted eggs is to place them in a container and then into the freezer.  This is the way that was advised by our exotic vet, who is very good to us and so was wholly trusted by ourselves and human. Please be prepared for this and do this immediately. The reason our human ended up with a remaining 11 eggs was because she didn’t feel she found them quickly enough to put into the freezer. Leave any eggs placed in the freezer in there for a good few days before removing and disposing of as you see fit. Human buried Arbie’s eggs under the tree with Neko and Jager, something other humans may consider strange. But ours didn’t like the thought of the eggs being alone, so no drains for them!

Now of course, the best way to avoid eggs is by keeping males and females separately, something which we were saddened by when we had to say goodbye to Hoshi and Jonesy, as they left to go to a male’s only tank and ours became female only. But we weren’t bought to be breeding lotls, and so that is where the romance ended!

Bringing up the little ones!

Although I’m certain Arbie would have loved to have taken care of (eaten) her newly laid eggs, or even newly hatched babies, human thought it best to remove them from our home and bring them up herself.

This is something that you must do; axolotls may (please see note below for update) eat their eggs and will eat their young and anything smaller than them (including young axolotls). -This is actually another way people use to dispose of unwanted eggs, but the thought of the eggs beginning to develop and then be munched on should not be a pleasant thought for anyone. – again, see note below. Thank you.

NOTE: I am unsure whether or not an axolotl will eat its eggs. The above information has been edited to reflect this. Although I can still find information regarding an axolotl eating its hatchlings I have had a difficult time resourcing the information that it will eat its eggs. I have found both that they will and that it is unlikely that they will. I’m sorry for the confusion regarding this matter. If I manage to find a definite answer this will be edited again. – Arbie, 2017.

Living Quarters

Once you have decided on the number of eggs you are planning to raise place them into a tub or individual containers and prepare for the waiting game.  Our human at first kept all the eggs together in a big tub, but a couple of days later, because the eggs were separate from one another, moved them into individual containers for ease of care once hatched.

First picture is of individual tubs and second is in original tub

There is no need to carry out water changes whilst the axolotls are in their eggs. Just have a thermometer in there so you can keep check on what temperature the eggs are being kept at.

This Egg Looks a Bit Weird

Unfortunately not all of the eggs will make it. There is little you can do at this point to achieve survival as if the egg is infertile that is that. The egg will appear milky or cloudy and whereas the other eggs will change shape over the days infertile eggs will not. You can choose to leave the eggs in with the growing embryos as they won’t cause any harm. This is however, unless you are concerned there may be fungus as this can spread to the developing eggs and so an infected egg is best removed. If you are unsure, simply place it into a container away from the rest. Although there is an egg which does not develop on one of my photos from my Axolotl Egg Diary, more immediately and clearly you can see this occurring here: http://www.axolotl.org/embryo_series.htm

Temperature

The temperature you keep your axolotl’s eggs can determine how long it takes for them to hatch. Keeping them at a temperature of 16-18c will lengthen the time they spend in their eggs, whereas having them at a higher temperature of 20-22c will cause them to hatch sooner. Just like with us adult axolotls raising the temperature above 24c will cause stress, and most likely death.

Arbie’s eggs were kept at 18c and they hatched at 16 days.

You could now only have a couple of weeks before the little ones begin to hatch. It is vital that you are already making preparations for food. And be prepared for failure!

Information on Food

Where food is concerned you have a couple of options. Some humans choose to build or buy their own BBS (baby brineshimp) hatchery. If you choose to do this please note that the BBS may fail and it is best to get your practice in and not leave it until the last couple of days to attempt hatching BBS.

You will find adice on how to make a hatchery by following this link: http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/microfoods.shtml

You also have the option of small daphnia, or microworm (for a limited amount of time as the baby axolotls will soon be too big for them).

Our human originally chose to use BBS, however every single source she used to buy them from they arrived dead. And when she attempted to hatch them following the guidelines herself, they also failed! So daphnia it was. This was expensive and time consuming as using the syringe (NO NEEDLE) below she had to separate the tiny daphnia from the larger for the baby axolotl’s dinner time.

 This syringe has been useful for both seperating large and small daphnia and also for spot checks!

  Note the difference in size of daphnia. To the left it is too big whereas on the right we have the smaller daphnia that is needed for baby axolotls.

It is completely essential that even if you have everything set up, and you can high five the parent axolotls thinking all is going well, that you have a back-up plan. Call around until you have at least 3 different pet shops that have regular deliveries of live food.  Make sure to ask that the BBS are babies, not regular brineshimp (as these are roughly the same size as baby axolotls) and are hatched. Otherwise you will have to wait for them to hatch once bought.

When human made these phone calls she asked for delivery dates, times, and exactly what came in. Some of the pet shops she would have had to use were quite far, but she was fortunate in finding a fairly local one that had almost a constant supply of daphnia.

Please be aware that if you use BBS these are salt dwellers, whereas us axolotls are not. This means that you must also buy a BBS net so you can rinse the salt from the BBS before using it as food. You must also make sure no BBS eggs get into the feeding area as baby axolotls cannot digest these and just like impaction with gravel can be fatal, so can BBS eggshells.

Although human didn’t use BBS the net still came in handy for rinsing the daphnia

Lastly, as BBS belong in salt water they will soon die off once put into the baby axolotl water creating excess waste that will need cleaning out as soon as the babies have finished eating.

So, be prepared, be prepared, BE PREPARED!

Notes from the above text:

Axolotls will eat their young – please refer to the note above regarding an axolotl eating its eggs.

Keep axolotl eggs in suitable container with water conditioned as normal. No need for water changes.

Keeping axolotl eggs at higher temperatures will cause them to hatch earlier than if kept at a lower temperature. No higher than 25c. (As advised here: http://www.axolotl.org/rearing.htm)

Upon hatching baby axolotl’s will only eat small live food. Baby brineshrimp (BBS) (please read notes above on feeding BBS), small daphnia, microworm etc.

Any eggs that appear milky are most likely infertile and will not hatch. It is safe to leave these in the tubs with the rest of the embryos, unless you believe it to be infected with fungus – in which case it should be removed or placed into a seperate container.

Read me online:

http://www.axolotl.org/breeding.htm

                                     http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/microfoods.shtml

                                     http://www.axolotl.org/embryo_series.htm

                                     http://www.axolotl.org/genetics.thm

The above links were used by human throughout her axolotl egg raising experience, as was knowledge from members on the following forum: http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-beginner-newt-salamander-axolotl-help-topics/f48-axolotls-ambystoma-mexicanum/and also from the book ‘Keeping Axolotls’ by Linda Adkins. A special thanks to zoezakella for putting up with human’s stressful ways nearing the time of hatching!

Axolotl Babies

Land lubbers and water dwellers alike, a good evening to you!

I, Dr Alan, with the help of Jones Bones Jonesy, have put together for you a photographic diary of the development of young miss Arbie’s babies. For the moment we are still unaware of whom the father might be.  I myself lean towards Hoshi, he is a dapper young fellow after all, no offence meant to Jonesy, but, well…he is awfully strange, that lad.

But I digress, and there are a lot of images to get through, so on with the show!

(Human couldn’t manage to simply putting the images into the blog, so you get a little video instead. How can I impress with my genius when I’m working with idiots?)

Thank you to Tom for the song suggestion. Now onto the details!

You will see that in both photos day one and day two the eggs are of similar shape and size, on day three however the egg is already losing its spherical shape. Also on day three if I may draw your attention to the egg situated at the lower right of the photo, you will see that it is infertile and will unfortunately not develop.

By day four a huge difference has occurred over night, the egg now appearing to take the shape of a tulip, what we see here is the beginning of where the axolotl embryo will separate. We see how this has happened in photo day five where it has taken the shape of a jellybean!

By day six it is possible now to see where one half of the embryo has lengthened and thinned out, whereas the other has widened. This is the development of the head and tail.

Day seven shows us that gills are beginning to appear, these are only just barely noticeable at this point as two little buds on either side of the embryo’s head.

Day eight shows us little difference in development apart from an apparent thickening of the gill buds, by day nine however the gills have lengthened impressively!

Day ten shows us that the head is now widened and that now even the tail is easily visible!

On the photo of day eleven the entire embryo is now recognisable as an axolotl. They also now have little beady eyes to watch with!

From day eleven up until day sixteen growth continued and much tossing and turning was witnessed from within the egg!

On Sunday at roughly 2am the first baby axolotl hatched.

Included here are four pictures, the first is of the babies at one day old, the second at two days old, third is one week old, and the fourth at two weeks.

I hope that you enjoyed this short blog about axolotl embryo development and that you will check back to see how they continue to grow and also for an insight into how our human cared for them.

Until then, may you lotl along in life merrily!

Dr. Alan’s Axolotl Survival Guide

Greetings!

 I am Dr. Alan, and as you have already met a co-inhabitant of mine I find little need to inform you that I am an Axolotl. But now I have, that clears up any unnecessary confusion. 

All new Axolotl recruits should find invaluable information within. Humans, and Axolotls alike, this guide is for your own safety! Please read carefully!

 So you think you’re an Axolotl? But what makes you so sure?

 Larval tiger salamanders present the same appearance as an Axolotl, leaving an unknowing owner with quite a surprise when they find their beloved ‘Axolotl’ losing its dorsal fin and becoming a land lubber. Now, nothing can prevent this other than trying to obtain your Axolotl from a reputable breeder or pet shop, preferably the former! As Arbie has already mentioned that an Axolotl can, although very rarely, metamorphose, we’ll head on to the next bit. 

Now that you’re certain you’re an Axolotl! 

Let’s get cracking on what is important to have in your home. Although a human may consider a television a vital homely aspect we on the other hand have our own needs… Read onwards my amphibious fellows!

 Bright lights are your enemy! You must have a hide, be it a log with holes to scurry into or even better a reptile house. Plenty of plants is also beneficial, but if using live plants please do your research! That goes for you too humans!

Gravel and small stones are also your enemy! Under no circumstances should you use gravel or any stones that are small enough to fit into your mouths. Us Axolotl’s eat anything we can cram in there! Without thought to how this may affect us! How can it affect us? It can be fatal. You should opt for a sand substrate (but please check its contents for any unwanted toxins), barebottomed tank, or if you are feeling really artistic I have seen some wonderful slate floored tanks. Here is a link to a personal favourite of mine: Mmmm Slate. I am hoping to persuade Sarah into flooring our tank with this someday…ah…some beautiful slate-floored day…

 Water conditions, possible enemy! Humans, take a moment to think what it would be like living in an enviroment where the air was foggy,heavy and hard to breathe in. If our water isn’t kept in tip top shape this could happen to us! Not only do you have to worry about using a product to de-chlorinate any water you put into our tanks but also there are certain test kits that are essential to keeping on top of our water conditions! A master test kit is a great start as you’ll need to check our PH, nitrates, nitrites and ammonia! Another factor you need in constant check is the temperature of our tank! Somewhere between 16-20c is our desired temperature, any hotter can be extremely stressful and result in an illness! So get that thermometer on the ready!

 Heavy flowing filters, ENEMY! You are a messy amphibian, and messy amphibians need not only a good filter but also daily spot checks on the tank floor! My human uses an Eheim external filter, but even this needs the spray bar tuned down to prevent us from getting startled by a heavy water flow! When considering a filter take into account how many Axolotls are in the tank and also how much water it needs to filter through it! If you opt for an internal filter keep in mind that these can affect the temperature of your tank!

 Fish? Yes, they are your enemy too! Please do not mix with fish, they will only nibble at your gills! The only fish we should ever see in our tanks should be at dinner time and of the guppy variety, the kind we eat! But even these should be quarantined away from us for at least 30 days to prevent any nasty diseases getting in. The only fellow tank mates we should have are other Axolotls. I shall go into more detail with this in a moment!

Food! Enemy! Wait, what? Food can be an enemy too? But…how? A common  misconception with an Axolotls diet is that they can eat anything that fits into their mouth, which sure they can, but they shouldn’t! For an example of this, please view this thread: Axolotl Eats Cory Catfish. Certain foods can be dangerous to an axolotl, another commonly fed food source the Mealworm can even be a risk! It’s head must be removed or crushed to prevent injury to us!

 So, what isn’t your enemy?

 Axolotl x Axolotl Providing we are of similar size, as axolotls *cough* have a habit of being cannibalistic *cough*, we can live quite happily together. Though, the more Axolotls per tank the bigger it needs to be! There are many recommendations as to what a decent size tank per axolotl should be, so judge accordingly and always hold your axolotls safety and comfort before greed of getting more little lotls!

The understanding of your Human. You and your human are destined to spend a good 10 years together! That’s right, we may look like water gerbils but we actually live for a very long time! As long as an understanding and bond is formed. Know your axolotl humans, know when something is wrong, recognize our patterns whether it be eating or activity! 

Being prepared! In the unfortunate case we should fall ill you must be prepared! Get your contacts and keep them safe! Ring around pet shops, find out their vets, or if they stock axolotls, their breeders. We are a strange species and it’s difficult to find a vet worth paying the money to visit. Our human once had a sick Axolotl, 3/4 vets although extremely helpful didn’t even know what an Axolotl was! So get out your little black book and start writing down some numbers! 

Good reading material! You will find an abundance of information on this site: www.axolotl.org and this forum: Caudata – Axolotl Forum There are many great sites on the web but these are the two our human uses mostly. I also check by frequently for more information on any scientific happenings.

 Earthworms, mmmm, I like earthworms. That is all I have to say on the matter. 

I hope you have found this guide at least the tiniest bit helpful. Good luck on your journey, may it be a great one!

Dr.Alan

(Arbie always insists on getting in on a photo!)